you can draw alot of conclussions from that

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Professional Stalker
"Speed has never killed anyone - suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you." -Jeremy Clarkson

Not exactly...what else are you going to tack weld to lol.

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Why!!??

It's just a Cavalier....

Hahaha what I meant was we tack welded the bracket to the spindle

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Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier - GONE
Hemi Wagon - Daily Driving
Vitz Hatch - Mrs / Mini Corkit's cruiser
* More to come *

Curious about the "bracket". am I wrong in it looks like you knock off the pad slides from the spindle, drill and tap new holes? for the Caliper bracket and tada?

Not exactly
Yes for all big brake kits you cut off the pad slides, but you do not drill or tap new holes

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Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier - GONE
Hemi Wagon - Daily Driving
Vitz Hatch - Mrs / Mini Corkit's cruiser
* More to come *

So the Camaro caliper bracket mounts to the same holes?

Hey Cork if you have a set of the Rotors off can you Caliper the bore on that for me??? I think im going to make some centric rings and do this little kit, just priced out the parts and they're cheeeaaaaap.

Just to give an update...
We had to change the rotors and get brand new cobalt SS ones, and have them properly drilled out to 5x100
Picked up the car on saturday
I have to say that I expected the SS lines to make more of a difference
but the stopping power is better with the larger 2 piston brakes
When the brakes are seated finally and properly worn down within 100k or so, then I'll test to see how quick I can stop

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Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier - GONE
Hemi Wagon - Daily Driving
Vitz Hatch - Mrs / Mini Corkit's cruiser
* More to come *

the brakes dont need too long to get the rotors broken in...stainless lines don't
make a difference in braking...they firm up the pedal so it doesnt feel as mushy and
make a bit of difference under very hard braking, i wasnt that
impressed either when i has them on my old sunfire, and i paid way more then what they cost now

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It only takes a few hard stops to break the brakes in. You want to do that so they dont glaze over.

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Why!!??

It's just a Cavalier....

Yea even so... I guess it's stiffer but I expected more
I knew it didn't make a difference in performance though

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Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier - GONE
Hemi Wagon - Daily Driving
Vitz Hatch - Mrs / Mini Corkit's cruiser
* More to come *

It may not seem like SS lines do much, but under a severe brake, you'll be glad to have them...you can also upgrade the brake fluid from DOT3 to DOT4, which most cars nowadays are using, and it's compatible, although I would flush and changeover to dot4 completely instead of mixing...dot4 also has way better moisture retention as well as higher boiling point (moot point really unless you autocross)

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actually a few notes about this...

SS lines don't provide better pedal feel as they are still rubber on the inside. the rubber will still expand ever so slightly like normal hoses.

Instead of using dot4 in a system designed for dot3, you can actually purchase performance dot 3 fluid with high boiling point. Dot 4 and 5.1 have different chemical composition than dot 3. It's probably fine to run dot 4 or 5.1, but high boiling point dot 3 is cheaper, and the proper fluid to use anyways.

Dot 4 will also absorb water faster, so you will have to change it more often.

Source: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-suppo ... rake-fluid

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If your changing out, and running larger brakes run DOT 5, its synthetic. Its paint safe and not Hygroscopic (doesnt absorb water). Takes a higher temp but unless you run hard and brake hard a lot, not going to reap that benifit. Dot 3 or 4 doesnt matter so much. They can interchange (VW's use DOT4) If you use DOT 5 you have to flush the system out really well. Basically disconnect everything, run air through, and when you fill it up over bleed the system to get all the leftovers out as best you can. 3 and 5 dont play well in the sandbox with each other.

you should not run dot 5 in a system that was not designed for it. please check out the link above.

"The original DOT 5 fluid specification was expected to be fulfilled by silicone based (SSBF) composition. It was designed for use in applications where its resistance to water absorption (and therefore low corrosion) was desired - like in military equipment. It has also found use in antique cars because it does not dissolve paint finishes. With SSBF, unfortunately, these characteristics were only achieved by unacceptably high compressibility. As such, the DOT 5 grade SSBF is of little value to any conventional automotive or high performance application."

What people do is run dot 5.1, which is still a glycol based fluid

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I actually flushed the system and put in DOT4 brake fluid in at the same time
Bing - What does the SS lines do if they dont improve the pedal feel?

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Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier - GONE
Hemi Wagon - Daily Driving
Vitz Hatch - Mrs / Mini Corkit's cruiser
* More to come *

personal experience has been that they look cool haha.

they are still rubber on the inside, and rubber lines typically have a metal layer inside the rubber lining as well, so that's why I don't see how they could be different.

if you still have the factory lines why not, but otherwise meh...

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Have you run ss lines? I have, and I noticed a firmer pedal.



Not true, dot 3 and 4 are both glycol based, dot 5 is not compatible with either

Regarding changing the brake fluid, any brake fluid needs to be changed much more regularly then most people think.

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True enough, if its starting to go dark its time to change, or should be. I've seen brake fluid damn near black. But at the cost it is for someone to do that... if its still working they aint-a-gonna fix it. Most brake jobs I've had it starts the same way... "its making a funny sound" open it up for some nice metal to metal action, and its far past pad replacement, now we are talking rotors and calipers too.

When it comes too brakes and cooling systems I always have to explain to people these are a sealed, and contained system. if you are continually adding fluids you have a problem, especially brakes. But if brake fluid is fine but gone dark, its either heat burnt or its vaccumed moisture through a fitting. Its like AC systems, they do the same thing.

Yes I have, and no i did not feel a firmer pedal feel. Maybe your rubber lines were old and degrading?

I never said anything about dot 5, it's dot 5.1 that has the same chemical composition as dot 4.

Dot 3 and 4 do not have the same chemical composition.

Everything was in the link i posted... just had to read it man


Fluid Dry ERBP (°F) Wet ERBP (°F) Viscosity Limit Chemical

Grade @ 0.0% H2O @ 3.7% H2O (Cp @-40°F) Composition



DOT 3 401 284 1500 mm2/s Glycol Ether Based



DOT 4 446 311 1800 mm2/s Glycol Ether / Borate Ester



DOT 5 (SSBF) 500 356 900 mm2/s Silicone Based



DOT 5.1 500 356 900 mm2/s Borate Ester/ Glycol Ether

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